List of events taken place in workshop for engine overhauling of Toyota wish
1) Visual inspection of engine.
Inspection of fluid sweeping out of the many plugs, sending unit connections, and joints between components. Inspection the Harmonic balancer for signs that the isolation rubber is cracking, which may suggest it needs to be replaced. Checking for any signs of overheating, cracking and scorching on the block. Also, checking for any excessive gasket sealer left behind from previous work. Also, check the casting numbers to ensure that the engine you think you are driving on is actually the engine you purchased. Engine swaps are not uncommon and each engine has different specifications.
2) Inspection of the external components on the engine.
Inspecting the distributor for signs of looseness by putting some pressure on it. Inspecting the alternator belt for signs of wear by spinning the pulley and listening for any unusual noise. Inspect the clutch assembly for wear.
3) Remove the exhaust manifold if it was not removed earlier to facilitate removing the engine the engine compartment.
The exhaust manifold bolts or studs may be very corroded, take care to break them loose without damaging them.
4) Begin disassembling the rest of the engine.
Removing the oil pan and the valve covers, then the cylinder heads.
5) Check the cylinder bores.
Mech’s may use a micrometre to determine the bore diameter, very worn cylinders may be too far gone to allow a successful rebuild. If you know the engine hasn't been rebuilt previously, you can get a good idea of the wear to the cylinder walls by looking at the cylinder ridge. This is the point where the piston rings top out, the surface below the ridge is worn down the contact of the cylinder rings as they travel up and down, the tops isn't worn, so it indicates the original bore diameter. Generally, if the wear is less than 20/1000 of an inch, the original pistons can be reused, over 20/1000s will require the engine to be bored and oversized pistons to be used.
6) Remove the ridge on the cylinders near the top of the bore with a cylinder reamer (rimmer).
The ridge is the point where metal of the cylinder did not wear because the rings do not rise that high in the bore. The cylinder wear should be below this point, but the ridge must be reamed out before removal to allow pistons to be removed and without damage and to make re-installation of the pistons with new rings possible.
7) Remove piston and rod assemblies.
After removing the rod caps from the rods, place rod journal protectors (protective covers) on the rod ends and protect bolts to prevent them from striking, scraping and scoring the engine block or from bolt threads being damaged during removal and handling. Rubber fuel hose can be cut to slip over the bolt threads in this case. Once removed replace the same rod cap back on the matching rod, keep them as numbered paired/matched sets. Keep the parts marked or in order for return to the same cylinder from which they were removed. This to assure balance and fit; and consistent "break" in.
8) Remove and inspect the crankshaft.
Once removed store in a safe place, mech’s may preferably use crank mounting plates so that he can accurately measure the crankshaft. Keep old main bearings in order, inspect them for wear and excess dirt. With the crank removed and stored correctly place the main caps back on the engine block and torque to specification.
Remove the camshaft, balancer shafts, and auxiliary drives. Pay attention to end play shims and spacers, keep these organized you will need to put these back in the correct order. Remove the cam bearings, paying attention to their position.
9) Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft.
Inspect for cracks and any signs of overheating. Measure different crankshaft dimensions. These dimensions include journal diameter, out of round, taper, and run out. Compare this to the dimensions listed in the shop manual. If the crank is out of spec, mark it for identification and have it for resurfacing or turning to return the bearing journals to round.
10) Finish disassembly.
Remove the core plugs, brackets, guide pins, and everything else still attached to the outside of the engine block. Perform a visual inspection of the engine block itself for any cracks. Magnaflux should only be used to find leaks on cast iron. Use dye penetrant to find cracks on aluminium blocks
12) Measure the specs.
It's probably best to have this done at the machine shop, but if you've got the necessary tools yourself, you can use a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check the deck surface for flatness. Measure the both diagonally and horizontally. If the deck surface exceeds the specification for flatness resurface the block. Use caution when resurfacing not to remove too much material. If too much material is removed you risk having the pistons collide with valves. Using a dial bore gauge measure each cylinder bore’s taper and for out of round. Inspect each cylinder for discoloration and washboard. Use a rigid stone hone to identify washboard. Check alignment and out of round of the main bearing bores with a dial bore gauge
9) Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft.
Inspect for cracks and any signs of overheating. Measure different crankshaft dimensions. These dimensions include journal diameter, out of round, taper, and run out. Compare this to the dimensions listed in the shop manual. If the crank is out of spec, mark it for identification and have it for resurfacing or turning to return the bearing journals to round.
10) Finish disassembly.
Remove the core plugs, brackets, guide pins, and everything else still attached to the outside of the engine block. Perform a visual inspection of the engine block itself for any cracks. Magnaflux should only be used to find leaks on cast iron. Use dye penetrant to find cracks on aluminium blocks
12) Measure the specs.
It's probably best to have this done at the machine shop, but if you've got the necessary tools yourself, you can use a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check the deck surface for flatness. Measure the both diagonally and horizontally. If the deck surface exceeds the specification for flatness resurface the block. Use caution when resurfacing not to remove too much material. If too much material is removed you risk having the pistons collide with valves. Using a dial bore gauge measure each cylinder bore’s taper and for out of round. Inspect each cylinder for discoloration and washboard. Use a rigid stone hone to identify washboard. Check alignment and out of round of the main bearing bores with a dial bore gauge
-content by Boey